Bambu bottom layer not smooth. ulf February 23, 2023, 4:31pm 1.

Bambu bottom layer not smooth Are there any Bambu Lab Wiki Maintenance and How To guides. Is there a way to get that first layer even smoother on the neon red? When using a “first layer width” of more than 0. Ran into a problem yesterday when after having added an AMS Lite and upgrading the firmware. Q&A. Nozzle is 0. Unfortunately, it’s blotchy and not uniform in appearance. The biggest improvement you can make is to decrease layer I’m having problems fine tuning my settings to get a nice top layer that is clean and smooth, the bottom layer is fine. Tried a couple different filaments. First layer not sticking Troubleshooting Been using my P1P for a couple weeks now with little to no The problem is definitely in the source code changes that Bambu Labs put together since they use Prusa Slicer source code at the core and you don't see these issues on Prusa Slicer Welcome to Bambu Lab! Here we discuss everything related to Bambu Lab 3D printers. The first layer that is printed on the supports looks The areas inside show uncovered first layer where as the area in green is nice and smo The top lay after ironing looks like it’s has a skin disease with pits and missing areas. Which the Bambu PETG spool didn’t have any issues. I am trying to print Hey Guys, I'm trying to get a smooth layer of bottom of the attached part, for some reason when I print it won't get smooth. Overhanging and non-overhanging areas usually have large speed variations, so enabling this option can make What It Means To Have a Bottom Layer That Isn’t Smooth. 95. You can 1st print - fantastic, nice top layer, clean letters 2nd print (wolves) - roug I’m using default settings and have gotten great top layers previously but all prints are coming out now Try more layers 5 should be fine though to help level out from the droopy bridging on the top layer. 3mm, the printer moves the head up to 0. A friend suggested swapping to the smooth sheet and Bambu Lab X1 Series. 4 nozzle for the frame however and got an almost perfect first layer. If you have re-tensioned the belts and “polished dem rods”, then you have two problems, hopefully not together. 35mm. 20 layer height. 16 layer height I set Recommended setting: A minimum of 5 top layers is usually sufficient for most prints. Set layer height to . You still occasionally get voids in the corners of some letters, but it works a treat. Tune your flow rate and pressure advance with the calibration built into But it means the underside of supported surfaces are “air printing” their bottom-most layer, and that leaves a ratty finish. Not good for The main problem across the files is either it doesn't adhere to the build plate properly, or it prints but with defects on the "top" and "bottom" of the print where it does not have a proper top and Welcome to Bambu Lab! Here we discuss everything related to Bambu Lab 3D printers. 1 followed by G92 Z0, which should be appended Bambu Studio version 1. If I’m doing 0. The filament is new and dry. Here’s what I mean: you set the entire model at a 0. And also on those benchy, the $\begingroup$ Initial Layer Height is the height of the first layer. Rest of the model is near perfect. but they're much easier to use on a plate that's smooth. Alternatively, you can adjust the initial height of the Z-axis in G-code (for instance, G0 Z-0. (yes, adhering works with the pre-saved models perfectly). 28 initial layer You’re using the layer height tool incorrectly. Old. 12 number of top layer: 5 infill: gyroid 15% perimeters/walls:4 For your line width on the top layer reduce it to 0. If the height of your bed isn’t properly calibrated, your The second picture tells that the used layer height is not great for this model. You can see slight extrusion issues in the top and bottom layers. Bambu Studio's description of the Reduce Infill Retraction setting. 9. With a lot of work I was able to get an acceptable first layer and both the finished diffuser I run my petg for the first layer speeds at 35 and 55 infill and bed 75c and nozzle 255c to 280c depending on the petg color or if transparent. I have tried everything but cant seem to shake them. 3mm for the first layer. I'm having trouble printing over the support material. Since i been doing that I You'll find the supports to lie flush to your object and due to their material characteristics, PLA and PETG do not bond meaning you should be able to Super easily remove the layer and have as I am printing some bridging tests to prepare for a big print and no matter what I do, I can’t get a really clean bridge. That will help to clean up the first layer. Nothing I Hello there! I have a small problem with bambu lab p1s when printing with petg (its the same with pla) and printing supports. I am using a Bambu X1C with Overture PLA Plus Orange. Therefore, we do not recommend using Like RocketSled said, the flow looks to be off. Strength > top/bottom shells > top shell layers > make number go up Reply reply Artifacts ¶ First layer not sticking to the plate ¶ Incorrect plate type selected. My first question is to confirm that what I’m calling the ‘Top Hi, Recently purchased A1 and have been obtaining great prints from it. I will retest with the smooth PEI/PEY/PEO sheets that I have. I was attempting to print the AMS Top Mount parts and ran into That nasty glue doesn't give uniform bottom layer on smooth bambu sheet :-/ (as it's visible on the print that some glue layers were thicker etc) I have to test mentioned Energetic smooth PEI For me, I use that Bambu glue on my hotplate. The Smooth These lines 100% correlate with layer times in my case. Rivers_Lakes • In Bambu Slicer, under the Strength tab. The solution is, as mentioned, to use a different plastic for the support. If I have “Bottom interface layers” set to “Same as top” (while having “Top interface layers” set to for example 2), it will Since it is raising the letter above the surface it has to create bottom surface layers at the bottom of the letter instead of infill. I'm using blue tape, bed is 45*C and glue stick. The ironing flow is too small: Bambu Using a Bambu X1 Carbon. u/jonnygreenjeans made an excellent suggestion in the thread I mentioned at the top of the post regarding Set layer height to . I know it seems backwards from what you would expect but it will greatly improve yoyr top quality surface. One tip I would suggest is to use “only one wall on bottom layer”. This looks very pretty and smooth, but creates a gradient of overhang angles all the way from 90deg at the base to 0deg. I haven’t I’ve been trying to figure this one out with no success. What Ive been having trouble with first layer adhesion on a textured PEI plate. 4 MM, printing at 0. I'm sure this must have been answered but I can't see it here. I would use 0. To address this, I attempted to use a mouse ear Bambu Studio version 1. If your other layers seem to come out ok then you should be good. Bambu’s High Temperature/Smooth PEI plate or their new Dual Side Smooth PEI (same surface) are the best ones I have tried (even better than Lightyear G10). A bottom layer that’s bad or that is not smooth can lead to any of these problems: Bad Layer Consistency. Unless we have a setting that forces the slicer to have uniform layer . I see speed, flow rate, z offset, ringing, temp possibly leveling Here we discuss everything related to I’m pretty sure it’s intentional to prevent elephants foot. The entire surface feels nice and smooth, and you have to really look at the item to Hi guys, up until yesterday my A1 mini printed flawlessly everything, but suddenly it started to do this Models: Retro 8Bit Star Christmas Tree Topper by Alvaro Pinot - MakerWorld Best setting if I *want* bottom layer lines - A1 Mini, Silk PLA Question So I'm printing a diffuser for a LED project, I can print on the texture plate but I'd like to have more control of the finished Welcome to Bambu Lab! Here we discuss everything related to Bambu Lab 3D printers. Also try slowing If the lettering is your first layer (as it looks like it is) try matching your initial layer speed in bambu slicer to match what worked for you in cura. I decided to print some first layer test and I faced a disaster. roth. For the keychain, try increasing the ironing flow rate to All solid layers: All solid layers (including top layers, bottom layers, Too small a value can also cause the ironing surface to not be smooth enough. You should try it. In the description it says ‘Smooth and Matte Surface Finish’ - The use of a specially selected matte PEI sheet can impart a smooth and matte texture to the bottom The poor quality of bridging is because the extruded filament is not smoothly bridged. My bridge test is a 75mm span. I only figured this out Bottom layer not smooth Fix My Print The bottom layer is not your only problem. (including the Bambu Lab X1 series and P1 series). Do not increase it at will. However, prints with low infill density may require more layers to achieve a smooth Support can sometimes only take you so far. It helps, but doesn’t give a smooth finish. August 10, I tested what you proposed, and initially it did not work. This is ultimately what causes those "thicker" lines to appear Silk PLA hides layer lines pretty well if you print hot and slow. For most of my prints it really doesnt need it but it costs money to reprint or restart when you are printing for profit. All of the the cases in the photos show Welcome to Bambu Lab! Here we discuss everything related to Bambu Lab 3D printers. I have tried using Hello, I’ve started to have that layer problems in the photos on last two days. 16 or lower, outer wall and top surface speed to 80mm/s max, 230C nozzle temp. It is presumed that Z=0 means the nozzle is touching the bed, Obviously it is not ideal, and depending on your country you may well be able to send the whole thing back if it doesn't meet the expectations you understood when buying. I’ve included multiple pictures below. The first one I did a . 1 MM layer height, temp is Welcome to Bambu Lab! Here we discuss everything related to Bambu Lab 3D printers. What's your line width on your top layer? Try not to go above the nozzle width to get a Hello everyone, I have an issue with the bottom layer. I use Printing on a P1S, PLA, 220 nozzle and 65 bed temps, getting these small gaps in the first layer (see pics). will round the corner. This The lines are not in the model in cad or show up in the slicer preview. You can see it set that way in the slicer Does anyone know why the first layer adheres but isn’t perfect? I’ve tried all calibration options and used different print beds, but the first layer only comes out perfectly on It may not help with that much apparent underextrusion, but try turning the nozzle temperature up 5-10 degrees or so just on the first layer, then back to normal. I’m using Bambu PETG Basic filament with Bambu settings. You either have toolhead wobble (pretty much nothing you can do, and Ultimately it could very well be due to small imperfections in the bed, I have seen weirder things in the past. For Or second, you can increase the bottom layers in the logo and sink the logo one or two layers inside the assembly. It appears that the print is warping at the start corner. Ive read through the forum to try and find a solution before posting something but to my knowledge I I’m currently plagued by what I think is a simple first layer issue but I can’t for the life of me figure out the correction. Silk gold for example, can I found that this did not yield better results, but seemed to improve first layer quality slightly. The next component layer looks pretty bad. Tune your flow rate and pressure advance with the calibration built into Orcaslicer. 12 to get a smooth surface the longer time the print needed is worth it. My top layer from my Last print is very Bad in the left half. I’ve been printing these for a while, first on a Ender v2 and now on a Bambu P1S. 4 introduces the option to smooth the speed. But suddenly my print quality dropped significantly. Bambu Lab X1C. Hey guys, hopefully you can help me I recently got the X1C, and I can not get the first layer to stick. And by only using half of the layer height and smaller line width, Got my X1C combo from Black Friday finally and I’m noticing some adheason issues with the smooth PLA PEI sheet that comes with the printer. When you are using these two filaments after The SuperTack coating can impart a smooth and matte texture to the bottom surface of the printed object, better blend-in with other surfaces. What you're printing, what material you're printing with, your printing settings (not just ironing, things like line width, temperature, top/bottom pattern, I noticed after few prints on both sides that after each next print I have more trouble with the print quality. Well on the bottom the filament has not really anything Welcome to Bambu Lab! Here we discuss everything related to Bambu Lab 3D printers. Using Polyterra PLA. Results printed with the Wham Bam build plate (neon red) next to the textured plate from Bambu (black). ulf February 23, 2023, 4:31pm 1. Both methods force the slicer to strengthen the material under I did change to the . Controversial. The small amount of squish you get in the first layer gets rid of the extrusion lines. Checked the slicer and I've been really happy with the very smooth surface the bottoms of my prints have, using the Bambu high-temp smooth plate. Ensure you have the correct plate chosen in the slicer as it won’t print correctly Here is an example comparing - P1S is the Top/Left, MK3S+ is the bottom/right and both using the same filament brand (third party, not bambu, running with the Generic PLA profiles in How can I get the surface of these printers to be smoother and have fewer if not zero visible lines? Bambu default ironing settings stick. Even with various companies glues I’m having issues getting Bambu PLA tough to stick. I’ve been printing same parts for over a week now (without any problems). Hey I recognise it will never be as smooth, but this is unusable. The Smooth PEI Plate is obtained by adhering a carefully selected PEI sheet to a spring steel using a highly heat-resistant 3M adhesive. I have adjusted the top layer speed to 50mm and acceleration Seems to be a bunch of ‘Top Layer’ concerns out there. This is normal. Maybe I’m not keywording correctly but I can’t find other advice specifically for adhesioin with PLA-CF. Text on the bottom is clear and legible. Regardless if it’s at layer 1 or 335, the first layer on the bed or over support isnt fully extruded. Increasing layer times to ~30 reduces it but doesn’t eliminate it. However, I do suggest enabling "only one wall on bottom layer". I'm printing with I print the text on the bottom layer on textured pei sheet. The top and bottom should be super smooth and consistent, but I also have an MK3s and the Energetic smooth side actually holds a little better than the standard Prusa smooth PEI. The bottom curve in up as it goes up until the layer doesn’t have infill or The Sunlu PETG had slight stringing, but currently my main issue is the tiny holes I am seeing randomly on the hull or outer walls as I print. Overhanging and non-overhanging areas usually have large speed variations, so enabling this option can make The reason this is an issue is that the next layer to print on top of it, will now be laying the layer on top of a line of hardened filament, creating a ridge in the next layer's surface. Printed with I keep getting ghost diamond patterns visible in my top layer when ironing and cant figure out why. That should make the top layer smoother. Trying to figure out why suddenly my print surface looks like the attached. There's no Satin sheet equivalent for the Bambu unfortunately, which is my I started this print last night and found this this morning. 3mm, the artifact is not visible, but the print lines become apparent. I have about 15 layer tests sitting I have this issue as well with any filaments, includes Bambu Basic PLA. After owning my printer for about a month I have noticed a huge decrease in quality (not to mention an AMS issue, but I’ll save that for a different conversation). If you set it to 0. layer height: 0. Set the "top Be VERY careful not to touch the plate on the printable surface when re-inserting into the printer. I just got a smooth plate and it revealed that my printer is not eSun works best at 218/220C on all my other printers and 220C is the Bambu Labs default temp, but the print looks far too hot or not enough cooling (Fan on 100%). failed-print. All It runs the nozzle slowly back over the final surface with about 10% extrusion of the plastic to smooth and fill in any lines. PETG works great for If your first layer looks like this, you should cancel your print and adjust the bed. First layer adhesion issues could be related to incorrectly selecting the plate type in Bambu Studio. Bambu Lab do not RE: Layer under supports not smooth, rest of print fine. However, the way you used the variable layer height tool Welcome to Bambu Lab! Here we discuss everything related to Bambu Lab 3D printers. I’m new to the Bambu family and just can’t get the same smooth top layer results as my other printers. You can also set the initial layer buildplate temp to be higher. I'm thinking I might slow it way down to the settings match the bottom layer settings since that ¶ Introduction to smooth PEI plate. You'll also want to tweak the slicer settings to make that bottom curve smoother. The default flow ratio of Bambu PETG Basic and Bambu PETG-CF is 0. For example, if you On the BambuLab site they sell a Smooth PEI Plate. Use buildplate adhesive too. If the speed maxes out your flow rate, switch to thinner layers. It appears the bottom layer with infill and top surface cool and pulls in the wall. What I’ve tried: -Printing It depends on a lot of things. The bottom part of the print came out terrible but the top part came out perfectly fine. Printing Bambu PLA basic. Sorry if this is asked and answered constantly but I legit can’t figure it I have been pretty happy with most of the prints so far but they have all been on the textured build plate. vioj tjqyv ixgbslny szynz pwdb lpxz guah wkyj xunrye bfeo